Keep Your Outdoor Hot Tub Happy: 14 Mistakes to Avoid

How misuse shortens lifespan—and can void the warranty

TL;DR ( Quick Start )

• Use clean municipal water; avoid untreated well/river/pond water.
  
• Power off at the breaker before draining; never run pumps without water.
  
• Keep the spa on a dedicated circuit ; don’t share with other devices.
  
• Treat the spa like a mini pool, not a bathtub—no soap, oils, “onsen” powders.
  
• Use only the sanitizer type your manufacturer specifies (avoid cal‑hypo, sodium hypochlorite, tri‑chlor unless explicitly allowed).
  
• Run daily filtration/circulation; clean/replace filters on schedule; don’t kill power between soaks.

14 Improper Uses That Damage Outdoor Hot Tubs

1) Filling/Draining with Power ON

Running pumps/sensors with no water can burn them out.
Do this instead: Switch OFF the dedicated spa breaker before draining. Refill to 1–2 in (2.5–5 cm) above the highest jet, then restore power. Don’t overfill or underfill.

• Turn off the spa breaker (the control set installed by Q&G) before every drain.
• Drain via the tub’s drain line or a submersible pump.
• Because the system is automated, running pumps/sensors dry risks overheating and damage.
• When filling, reach the standard level (1–2 inches above the highest jet) before turning power back on.
• Underfilling traps air in plumbing and strains pumps; overfilling risks overflow and wet electronics.
  

Piggybacking devices (transfer pumps, lights, TVs) can trigger dry runs and control failures.

Do this instead: Use a dedicated, isolated circuit.

• Outdoor spas auto‑cycle circulation, filtration, and heating. Shared circuits may start the spa at the wrong time.
  
• Real‑world case: a transfer pump tied into the spa circuit caused the spa to start while water was low—pumps ran dry, overheating pumps and killing the control box.
  
• Don’t share with drain pumps, extra timers, added control panels, lighting, path lights, speakers/TVs.
  
• Separate circuits make troubleshooting easier and prevent overcurrent/shorts.
  

External chlorinators, heat pumps, sand filters, waterfalls, pool tie‑ins → low flow, overheated pumps, corrosion, contamination.
Do this instead: Keep the factory plumbing/control design. Consult Q&G before any changes.

• Spa pumps/controls aren’t designed to push water outside the tub; add‑ons reduce return flow and overwork circulation.
• Pool connections introduce chemistry mismatches and contaminants; salt pools accelerate corrosion (spa materials aren’t designed for salt).
  

Iron, manganese, calcium, and silt clog filters, foul heaters/sensors/jets.
Do this instead: Use fresh municipal water. If unavoidable, use delivered filtered water plus a tested, correctly sized home filtration setup.

• Avoid canal/pond/reservoir water and unfiltered well water even if the spa has its own filter.
• Heavy sediments accelerate filter wear and can damage pump, flow sensors, heater, ozone unit, jets, and air massage.
• If natural sources are unavoidable: buy filtered/delivered water; have a filtration company test your source water and size a system that actually removes scale.
• Q&G tubs run automatic daily filtration and ozone, but you still need: correct sanitizer use, filter cleaning/replacement, and scheduled water changes.
• Water issues arise from source choice, chemicals added, personal‑care products, and neglect.
• Long absences (3–6 months): drain, power off, clean/dry the shell, and leave the cover open 24 hours to deter mold/odors.
  

Soaps, oils, salts, “onsen” powders, shampoo → residue build‑up and biofilm.
Do this instead: Shower first; add no bath products to the spa.

• Shower before soaking (like at a Japanese onsen) to reduce contaminants.
• Outdoor spas recirculate water; unlike bathtubs, you don’t drain after each use.
• Bath products cause residue in pipes, jets, and filters → deterioration, failures, and hygiene issues.
  

Cal‑hypo → scaling; sodium hypochlorite → corrosion/green water; tri‑chlor → pH crash, corrosion, chlorine lock.
Do this instead: Use only the sanitizer type/dose specified by Q&G; maintain pH/alkalinity.

• Q&G uses chlorine + ozone so you can reuse water up to ~3 months in private use (changing more often is fine).
• Calcium hypochlorite: scale buildup → clogged filters, reduced heater efficiency, stuck/broken jet internals, sensor issues, pump wear.
• Sodium hypochlorite: corrosive to metals/plastics; mis‑dosing leads to green water and slime.
• Tri‑chlor: acidic and stabilized; long‑term use lowers pH, harms skin, corrodes components, and can cause gas/odor and chlorine lock.
  

Detergent + hot water = foam and skin irritation.
Do this instead: Wear rinsed swimwear (no detergent residue).

• Proper swimsuit care: rinse with plain/warm water only (no detergent).
• Regular clothing washed with detergent releases suds in hot water → foam everywhere; spa systems cannot remove laundry foam → often requires a full water change.
  

Idle water breeds biofilm, algae, odor; jets may spit slime after downtime.
Do this instead: Keep daily circulation/filtration and sanitizer active (ozone + chlorine).

• Systems are designed to circulate/filter 4–8 hours/day (model‑dependent).
• “Fill‑soak‑drain” usage leaves residue water in pipes that grows bacteria and algae.
• Longer idle periods (≥1 week) increase buildup; next session may eject white slime/algae from jets.
• Long‑term neglect clogs pump, heater, sensors, ozone, and filters, reducing performance and causing failures.
  

Clogged/torn/mismatched cartridges overwork pumps and trip heaters.
Do this instead: Rinse monthly (city water) or weekly/biweekly (natural sources). Replace ~12 months (city) or 3–6 months (natural sources). Use the correct part.



• Most Q&G outdoor spas use paper/fiber‑wound cartridges.
• Bangkok/municipal water: rinse monthly; provinces/natural sources: clean more often.
• Ignoring filter care → clogging, pump strain, heater/sensor shutdowns.
• Don’t run 2–3 years on the same cartridge; replace on schedule.
• Third‑party cartridges with wrong micron rating/size overwork pumps and degrade heater performance; not covered by warranty.
• Q&G configures filtration for ~48 turnovers/day. Reducing hours to “save power” leads to slimy walls and green water.
• Running without a filter is misuse; large debris (hair, dust, leaves, toys) can enter plumbing and quickly clog components.
  

No power = no scheduled filtration/heating → stagnant, smelly water.
Do this instead: Keep the spa powered 24/7 so cycles can run.

• The spa relies on daily programmed cycles to keep water healthy.
• Powering down for days lets water stagnate, which harms both water quality and components (filter system, plumbing, heater, control boards, pumps, ozone).
  

~40 °C (104 °F) or < ~10 °C (50 °F) can stress plastics, seals, and sensors.

Do this instead: Let the spa’s heater bring water to temperature; avoid thermal shock.

• Components are chosen for water up to ~40 °C. Don’t add very hot water to mimic 42–45 °C onsen temperatures.
• Very cold fill water below ~10 °C can also damage components.
  

Panels protect against rain, sun, dust, pests.
Do this instead: Keep panels installed and closed except for service; maintain service access when adding decking.

• Leaving panels off during or after decking/recess work exposes control boards, underwater lights, ozone units, and pumps to moisture and debris.
• Open panels trap dust/moisture and can attract pests (e.g., snakes/rodents). Damage incurred like this is typically not covered.
  

Forcing power after a trip voids coverage and risks injury.
Do this instead: Keep RCD and breakers in circuit; call Q&G if trips persist.

• Q&G installs protective devices for your safety. Post‑install rewiring to “force it on” bypasses protection and can cause further damage or personal risk.
• Analogy: forcing a tripped home breaker back on without fixing the cause.
  

Point‑loading (e.g., ladder legs on a floor jet) can crack jets/shell; DIY moving can damage the frame.
Do this instead: Consult Q&G for rails/steps/seats and for any relocation. Preserve service clearance with recessed/surround installs.



• Before adding grab bars, steps, extra seating, Q&G should verify structure and attachment points to avoid compromising the shell.
• Example: placing ladder legs on a floor jet can break the jet/housing and eventually crack the shell; shells are designed for distributed loads, not single point loads.
• For post‑install decoration (decking/walkways/recessed looks), ensure panels can still open for service.
• For moving/relocating, use Q&G’s trained crew and equipment to protect the frame/shell and preserve warranty benefits.